Buying/ Tailoring a suit for the first time? A quick guide for Men

If you are planning to get a Suit done for yourself for the first time and you don't have any idea how to get a Real Man look with your suit . Here are the points to help you out.

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TAILORING

No matter what kind of suit you buy, you should be ready to pay to have it tailored. If the store doesn’t offer free tailoring, you should factor that into your price and set aside maybe another few bucks to make sure you can get the suit tailored properly.

Areas that might need a tailor’s touch are the back of the jacket, sleeves and the Waist and leg of the trouser: Because guys come in all shapes and sizes, finding the type of suit and suit trouser that fits your body style deserves some consideration. If you’re a thinner person, particularly now, it’s easier to find a flat-front pant with a slimmer cut,” says a retail consultant. “If you’re a medium-sized guy, you can go either way. If you’re a bigger guy, flat-front pants aren’t the way to go. If you’re hard to fit, you’ll have to go to a custom tailor.”

COLOR AND STYLE

Now that you’ve made the time for your buying experience and found a reputable tailor, the next step is deciding on color and style for that first suit. “I would suggest getting one that’s conservative—blue, gray or black,” Pinstripes is OK in any of them.It shouldn’t be anything outrageous—four or five-button suit or extrawide lapel. “You want to buy a two-button, notch lapel suit right now,” adds Rohit, a top fashion designer. “The three-button is really sort of falling out of popularity. If you buy a two button, it’s going to be in style a lot longer than a three-button,” he says.

THE FABRIC

For that first suit, one particular fabric is paramount—wool. “You want to find a 100 percent wool suit,” Rohit says. “And if you can find what they call the three season suit, which is really a four-season suit, you can wear it throughout the year.” Ties, shirts, dress belts and dress shoes are also important. The key is to make sure the whole ensemble works together. As Cunningham puts it, think in terms of a  painting. “The shirt is the background for the picture, the suit is the frame and the tie is the thing that you can focus on.”

DO’S

• Try on both the jacket and trouser at the store; give yourself time to shop around.

• Make sure the jacket is smooth across the back and doesn’t pucker at the shoulders. You should have the proper sleeve length on the jacket with about a quarter of shirt cuff visible when your arms are at your side.

• Go for a charcoal or navy two- or three-button suit made of wool.

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• Take the suit to a tailor for any tweaking it might need.

• Button the top button on a two-button jacket or the top two buttons on a three button jacket. Never do the bottom buttons. If you do decide to go with a double breasted jacket, always wear it closed.

• Remember, brown shoes, brown belt; black shoes, black belt.

• Wear a white or pale blue shirt with your suit. Wear an undershirt. The last thing you want is sweat stains showing up under your arms.

• Wear the proper shoes with your suit. Thick black leather lace-up with a cap toe. You could wear brown if your suit is blue. In some case, brown will also go with the gray.

• Wear over-the-calf socks so they don’t keep dropping and bunching up at your ankles, or even worse, exposing a hairy calf or shin. Socks should match your trouser so it’s a relatively seamless color transition from pant leg to ankle.

• Keep in mind most suits will come with a 6-inch drop, meaning if the jacket is a size 44, the waist on the trouser will usually be 38 inches.

DON’TS

• Expect to be terribly active in your suit jacket. It should be comfortable, but the most movement you should have to worry about is hugging someone. So hug yourself with your jacket on; if you can’t without risk of ripping, then it’s too small.

• Try to let out the waist of the trouser more then an inch or take it in more than two inches. You could ruin the trouser shape.

• Focus on extreme styles and colors. Avoid extra-wide lapels and four- or five button jackets.

FITTING GUIDE
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• Keep an eye out for clues the jacket is tight. Ridges on the back are telltale signs of strain.

• Too big? You see it when it puckers at the shoulder and along the back seam. Remember, it should look smooth.

• Don’t make the mistake of wearing sleeves that are too long. You should let your shirt cuff peek through a bit.

• One of the most common mistakes with wearing suits is treating the trouser length the way you would a pair of jeans or chinos. Too long just doesn’t look right

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